Contents

Part 1: Exposure

  1. 1 Mastering the Exposure TriangleBalance aperture, shutter speed and ISO for brightness, depth, motion and noise.
  2. 2 ISO and image noiseWhen to raise ISO, why grain appears, and how to trade it for a faster shutter.
  3. 3 MeteringWhat the meter aims for, how to read it, the four metering modes, and Sunny 16 when there's no meter.
  4. 4 Shooting modes and the histogramLet the camera set one setting, steer it with exposure compensation, and check the result with the histogram and zebras.
  5. 5 Dynamic rangeHow many stops a camera can hold at once, what to keep when a scene is wider, and measured figures for real cameras.
  6. 6 Shutter speed and motionCamera shake, freezing or blurring a moving subject, and ND filters for long exposures.
  7. Part 1 cheat sheetFormulas and starting settings from chapters 1–6.
  8. Part 1 quizCheck yourself on chapters 1–6.

Part 2: Focus and depth

  1. 7 Camera LensLens anatomy and how to choose wide, standard, telephoto, prime, zoom and specialist lenses for real subjects.
  2. 8 Aperture and depth of fieldWhy a wider aperture blurs the background, what else controls blur, and the shape of bokeh.
  3. 9 Sensor size and crop factorWhat a smaller sensor crops, equivalent focal length and aperture, and why phones fake the blur.
  4. 10 Hyperfocal distanceSharp from here to infinity: focusing landscapes with blur circles, focus stacking and a cheat card.
  5. 11 Diffraction and the sharpest apertureWhy f/22 looks soft, where your lens is sharpest, and how pixel size changes it.
  6. Part 2 cheat sheetFormulas and starting settings from chapters 7–11.
  7. Part 2 quizCheck yourself on chapters 7–11.

Part 3: Composition

  1. 12 The composition reading planAll 15 chapters of The Elements of Composition, with printed page numbers and a photography lesson for each.
  2. 13 Introduction to compositionComposition as visual communication: choose what to show, compare three frames, and see how viewers read them.
  3. 14 What is composition?Arrange subject, space and edges to change what a photograph says; compare photos and make three versions of one scene.
  4. 15 Focal pointsChoose where the eye lands first, use contrast and space to build a visual path, then test thirds and diagonals in a field exercise.
  5. 16 LinesFollow straight, curved and implied lines through a photograph, then make three frames of one subject from different positions.
  6. 17 ShapesFind shapes made by subjects and space, use a frame within the frame, and compare three ways to place one subject.
  7. 18 TexturesMake a surface feel tangible with light, detail and context, then photograph one material three ways.
  8. 19 PatternsUse repetition to build rhythm, break a pattern to draw attention, and make three versions of one repeated scene.
  9. 20 SpaceUse positive and negative space, fill the frame, and simplify without losing meaning.
  10. 21 DepthLayer foreground, middle ground and background, and use perspective or deep space to show distance.
  11. 22 BalanceWeigh elements with symmetry, asymmetry and radial arrangements; explore the golden ratio as an optional guide.
  12. 23 ContrastCreate meaning and focus through contrasting subjects, light, shadows and colour.
  13. 24 ColorChoose hue, saturation and brightness, then compare complementary, triadic, analogous and monochromatic palettes.
  14. 25 ToneRead shadow, midtone and highlight; shape global and local tone while keeping meaningful detail.
  15. 26 AngleChange camera height and tilt to compare level, straight up or down, high and low viewpoints.
  16. 27 Composition conclusionBring the elements together in a four-frame story and develop your own way of seeing.

Part 4: Color Theory

  1. 28 Color Theory in PhotographyUse HSL, warm and cool depth, four color harmonies, white balance and selective editing to guide attention.
  2. 29 White balanceRead the color of light, match Kelvin and tint, and choose what to preserve when lights mix.

Tools

  1. Color wheelExplore hues, adjust saturation and luminosity, enter RGB or hex values, and preview the color live.
  2. Photo editorTry light, colour, detail and crop adjustments on a sample or your own photo, then save the result.
  3. Golden hour plannerSunrise, sunset, golden hour and blue hour for where you are, and where the sun rises and sets.
  4. ND filter calculatorYour shutter speed with an ND filter on, and a countdown timer for bulb mode.
  5. Depth of field calculatorHow much is sharp for your lens, aperture and focus distance, and the hyperfocal distance.
  6. Photo info and location removerSee a photo's camera settings and where it was taken, then remove the location before you share it.

Chapter 11Part 2: Focus and depth

Diffraction and the
sharpest aperture

Stopping down gives more depth of field, but past a point the whole picture gets softer. Watch one point of light spread across the pixels as you close the aperture, and find where your lens is sharpest.

One point of light on the pixels

Airy disk

A 36 µm patch of the sensor. Each square is one pixel; brighter means more light. Dashed ring: the Airy disk.

Illustrative sharpness curve

Model score relative to this illustrative lens's best aperture. Click the chart to set the aperture.

1/3 stop per step, f/2.8 to f/32.

Sensor
Airy disk
Pixel size
Best in this model
Airy disk reaches 2 pixels

Show the chart as a table
ApertureAiry diskModel score

Why light spreads

Light passing the edge of an opening bends slightly, like water waves spreading through a gap in a harbour wall. The smaller the gap, the more it spreads. So even a perfect lens can't focus a point of light to a point: it makes a small bright disk with faint rings, the Airy disk.

Airy disk ≈ 2.44 × wavelength × f-number

For green light (0.00055 mm), that is about 1.34 µm per f-number. It depends only on the f-number, not on the lens or the camera.

ApertureAiry diskCompared with
f/45.4 µmabout 1 to 2 pixels in this lab
f/810.7 µm2 to 3 pixels
f/1114.8 µmabout 2.5 to 4.5 pixels in this lab
f/1621.5 µmabout 3.5 to 6.5 pixels in this lab
f/2229.5 µmabout 5 to 9 pixels in this lab

Your lens's sharpest aperture

Two kinds of blur pull in opposite directions. Wide open, a lens's aberrations may blur fine detail, and stopping down often helps. Stopped down far enough, diffraction takes over. The sharpest aperture depends on the lens, focus distance and where in the frame you look. Test your own lens; Nikon's focus-stacking guide suggests two or three stops down as a starting point when sharp edges matter.

Where to start

Start by comparing wide open with one and two stops down. Some lenses are already very sharp wide open; others improve as you close the aperture.

Smaller sensors are enlarged more for the same output size, so the same diffraction blur can show sooner. As a rule of thumb for equally framed pictures, diffraction on Micro Four Thirds at f/8 looks like full frame at f/16. See the diffraction explanation at Cambridge in Colour.

Pixels decide when you see it

At 100% zoom, diffraction may become noticeable when the Airy disk spans roughly two pixels, but there is no sharp cutoff. Smaller pixels reveal it sooner at that magnification; the effect on a same-size print or screen view can be much less obvious.

Test your own lens: photograph a detailed, flat subject on a tripod at every full stop. Keep focus fixed, adjust shutter speed to maintain brightness, then compare the centre and corners at 100% and at the intended output size.

The Airy disk diameter follows the diffraction formula. Pixel brightness and the lens's aberration curve are illustrative, so the model scores are not measured lens performance.

Depth of field or sharpness?

Landscapes pull both ways: you want the rock and the mountain sharp, so you stop down, and stopping down softens everything a little. The softness from diffraction is even across the frame and small, while missing depth of field is obvious. So depth of field usually wins, up to a point.

A sensible order

  1. Try f/8 to f/11 at the hyperfocal distance. It covers most landscapes.
  2. If the foreground is still soft, f/16 is fine for screens and small prints.
  3. Very close foreground? Focus stack at the sharpest aperture instead of going to f/22.

A common mistake

"f/22 gives the sharpest landscape." It gives more depth of field, but diffraction softens details at the focus plane compared with f/8. Foreground or background objects outside the f/8 sharp zone may still look sharper at f/22. Compare the whole picture at the size you will use.

Sharpening in editing can recover some diffraction softness, but not detail that was never recorded.